Tavolara Island: the smallest kingdom in the world
Tavolara and Molara are two enchanting islands in the north Sardinia, located off the coasts of Olbia, Porto San Paolo and San Teodoro.
Discover the curiosities, secrets, and legends of this sea area rich in history, the things to do in Tavolara, unmissable activities, and important information about the area.
How was the kingdom of Tavolara formed?
Legend #1
The King of Tavolara was a unique historical figure who reigned over the island of Tavolara, located off the northeastern coast of Sardinia, Italy. The story of this “monarchy” began in 1836, when a fisherman named Giuseppe Bertoleoni, known as “Giovanni I”, proclaimed himself king of Tavolara.
Initially, the proclamation of the kingdom was somewhat of a joke, but over time, the figure of the king of Tavolara gained a certain relevance among locals and visitors to the island.
Giovanni I, the first king of Tavolara, established his “court” on the island and began to exercise a kind of symbolic authority, welcoming tourists and visitors, issuing fancy “passports”, and even forming relations with other government authorities.
After the death of Giovanni I, the “dynasty” of kings of Tavolara continued with his descendants. His son Paolo I succeeded him as king, followed by Carlo I, and so on. However, the figure of the king of Tavolara always remained symbolic and devoid of real political power, considered more of a historical curiosity than an actual monarchy.
Over the years, the “kingdom” of Tavolara has continued to exist as a sort of tradition and tourist attraction on the island, and the descendants of the Bertoleoni family have maintained the title of king of Tavolara, although they have no official role in the government of the island or Sardinia.
Legend #2
It seems that everything began when King Carlo Alberto of Savoy landed on the Island and during his stay got to know the local residents. At the time of his departure, he made a promise to recognize the independence of the Kingdom of Tavolara with the Bertoleoni family leading the small kingdom.In the small and picturesque cemetery of the Kings of Tavolara, which can be visited on the island with a short walk, rests the descendants of the family.
Important: at the end of your visit to the small cemetery of the Kings of Tavolara, remember to close the small entrance gate.
Other legends about Tavolara
Tavolara is such a captivating island that it has always inspired fantastic tales. Besides the story of the Kingdom of Tavolara, another legend attributed to the beautiful island of Tavolara is the golden-toothed goats. These legendary goats of Tavolara are often spotted during a walk on the island and sometimes even seen from the sea during a boat trip as they graze on the cliffs. The goats of Tavolara actually have teeth of a golden color; this particular pigmentation seems to be due to a small endemic herbaceous plant they feed on, present on the island.2 Enchanting Islands: Tavolara and Molara
Tavolara and Molara are the 2 main islands that are part of the Marine Protected Area of Tavolara and Punta Coda Cavallo. The surrounding area and these islands are rich in attractions and things to do.
During a vacation in northern Sardinia, a trip to Tavolara is a must. You can take a walk and go snorkeling at Molara in one of the richest Marine Protected Areas in all of the Mediterranean.
The Islands of the Marine Protected Area
The Marine Protected Area of Tavolara Punta Coda Cavallo includes the Island of Tavolara, the Island of Molara, Molarotto, and the peninsula of Capo Coda Cavallo.
This small and enchanting archipelago off the northeast coast of Sardinia holds many surprises and boasts enchanted legends and stories.
- Tavolara and the small village
- Molara and the natural pools
- Molarotto integrated reserve area
- Proratora, an archaeological islet
- Capo Coda Cavallo peninsula
Tavolara
The Island of Tavolara is located in Sardinia on the northeast side, between the municipalities of Olbia, Porto San Paolo, and San Teodoro, just north of Budoni.
Tavolara is a predominantly limestone mass that rises in a sea of granite. The island has a rectangular, parallelepiped shape, with various outcroppings. From a distance, it presents itself to travelers as the profile of a woman lying on the sea.
Some liken it to a petrified ship with a long rudder, while others associate it with an Egyptian mummy, depending on the perspective from which it is viewed.
The Island of Tavolara rises over 560 meters above sea level and from its summit, Punta Cannone, one can enjoy a panorama of unparalleled beauty. On days with Scirocco, the warm and humid wind that blows from the southeast, Tavolara is crowned with a veil of clouds, the famous Tavolara hat.
Every year, the Tavolara Film Festival takes place on the island, an important film review incredibly suggestive thanks to the exclusive location that hosts it.
The 2 Sides of Tavolara
The Island of Tavolara is formally divided into two parts: east and west.
In the western area lies the part facing Porto San Paolo, with Cala Tramontana and Spalmatore di Terra, which once presumably connected Tavolara to the coasts of Sardinia. In this area, there are some houses with a very small inhabited center and small jetties for boats.
In the eastern area, you find Punta Timone with the site of the military base. This base is managed by the Italian Navy, important for its central position in the Mediterranean Sea.
This area includes the impressive rock arch, the lighthouse, and near the base and the telecommunication antennas.
The Trails of Tavolara
To make the most of your visit to Tavolara Island, we suggest a hiking excursion near the tiny inhabited center.
One thing to do in Tavolara is the walk that leads to the cemetery of the Kings of Tavolara and to Punta Spalmatore.
Passing near Cala Tramontana, you walk along a sandy path that leads to the cemetery and then to a long stretch of sand and rocks where the two seas meet.
The path is rich in infographics that describe the environment; during the walk, it’s possible to spot flora and fauna peculiar to the island and some endemic species.
Particularly interesting is also the Prolagus trail (a rodent believed to be extinct) that leads towards Punta la Mandria.
Completing the visit is the enveloping and intoxicating fragrance characteristic of the Mediterranean scrub and typical plants of the island.
The Beaches of Tavolara
The western part of Tavolara where the Tavolara ferries arrive is dotted with charming beaches and coves.
The first beach you encounter is right near the landings. Long, white, surrounded by nature and crystal-clear water.
Continuing along the path, you come across Cala Tamontana, a delightful pebbly beach that is secluded and little frequented.
Crossing the Cemetery of the Kings of Tavolara, a 10-minute walk along the back-dune path leads to Punta Spalmatore. A long strip of sand and rocks where the two seas meet, a must-see.
The Restaurants of Tavolara
- Ristorante La Corona
- Ristorante Da Tonino
The restaurants in Tavolara are 2 and both are certainly recommended, open for lunch and dinner. Dining in Tavolara is a unique experience, by the sea in nature with the sound of the waves.
Lunch and Dinner in Tavolara
The restaurants in Tavolara “La Corona” and Da Tonino “King of Tavolara” are open for lunch and dinner. They offer a menu based on fresh fish and local delicacies, typical products, and fresh pasta.
The prices at the restaurants in Tavolara are appropriate for the location, the service offered, and the excellent quality of the food served.
Apéritif in Tavolara
In Tavolara, you can enjoy a sunset apéritif at the Lounge Bar de La Corona, on the sofas in the shade of the gazebos. The bar offers excellent cocktails and a careful selection of wines. Great snacks and finger food.
Bar in Tavolara
At the end of the walk, you can also take a refreshing break at the bars in Tavolara. The two refreshment points offer ice creams, popsicles, coffee, soft drinks, and sandwiches.
Molara
The island of Molara is a granite formation of particular significance due to its lush and unspoiled nature. Molara is a private island that once hosted a Pope in exile.
In the northwestern part of the island, there are the remains of an ancient church, near cala Chiesa. There is also a freshwater spring that allows livestock to live on the island.
What to See in Molara
As it is a private island, it is not possible to land on Molara without permission. Excursions mainly aim for the natural pools of Molara.
The pools are a particularly sought-after stretch of sea, visited for the incredible colors of the waters. A mirror with particularly blue water and a shallow bottom of very fine sand.
Snapper, damselfish, and bream are the stars of snorkeling at the Pools of Molara.
Molarotto
From Tavolara heading southeast, you encounter a wonderful emergence characterized by low vegetation where there is a large colony of birds, including cormorants, grebes, and seagulls.
The granite islet of Molarotto is an integral reserve area. Access to the area is not permitted to best preserve its untouched nature.
At the edge of the integral reserve, marine life bursts forth in a myriad of colors and forms of life.
The Brothers
Not far from Molarotto, near the boundary of the integral reserve, is the emergence of the Brothers, a group of rocks particularly rich in life.
Snorkeling at the Brothers Rock of Molara always offers exciting encounters. Its exposure to open sea often allows you to see passing fish, amberjacks, and leccia.
At the depths of the Brothers, around 16-18 meters deep, lies the wreck of the Omega, a cargo ship that sank during a storm in the '70s, the remains of which now provide shelter for fish and sponges.
Capo Coda Cavallo
The peninsula of Capo Coda Cavallo is characterized by very fine sand beaches and crystal-clear water. The beaches of the promontory are beaches that are a must-see, among the most beautiful in the area. In the waters of Capo Coda Cavallo, you can experience all shades of blue.
Near the peninsula of Capo Coda Cavallo are some of the most beautiful beaches including Cala Brandinchi, Lu Impostu, Salina Bamba, Baia Salinedda, Cala Suaraccia, Cala Girgolu, and the Valley of Water.
Proratora
At the end of the peninsula of Capo Coda Cavallo lies the small islet of Proratora where archaeological excavations have revealed artifacts from the Roman era.
The excavations have shown that the settlement was likely focused on the sale of food, presumably of marine products such as fish or shells and salt.
Proratora is therefore testimony to how the “sea resource” has been and is still today important, fundamental, and to be preserved.
What to Do in Tavolara and Molara
Snorkeling in Tavolara and Molara
Snorkeling means putting on a pair of fins, donning a mask with a comfortable snorkel, and enjoying the wonderful underwater scenery. Snorkeling is a relaxing sporting activity that allows you to not think about anything and to clear your mind.
When snorkeling, you revert to being a child and spend some time away from problems looking for new animals or perhaps watching a fish engaged in its daily activities.
Often while snorkeling, you can admire starfish, sea urchins, moray eels, octopuses, and on the luckiest days, even a hermit crab in the middle of a move.
To snorkel, you do not need to be a proficient swimmer, but it is necessary to have a good comfort level in the water.
If you're not very experienced and wish to, you can request a floatation vest that will help you avoid getting tired. Keep in mind that shorts wetsuits are often provided to help with buoyancy.
A tip for snorkeling: when the mask is handed to you, before wetting it, put some saliva on the inside of the lenses. Spread the saliva and rinse with seawater.
If you don't put on the mask right away after this practice, leave a little water inside while waiting to start snorkeling. To novices, this barbaric practice often seems strange, but professionals always do it without thinking because this way the mask does not fog up.
Another very important thing is never to take starfish out of the water, not even for a few seconds, because it causes irreparable damage to them.
Trekking in Tavolara
The hike at Tavolara is a classic of trekking in Sardinia, undoubtedly one of the most beautiful and scenic hikes to take in the area.
Onboard a dinghy, you reach the island. The trailhead is on the slopes of Tavolara, in the area of Spalmatore di Terra, where you can find the starting point of the trek that leads to the top of Tavolara.
With a short via ferrata, you reach the summit from which you can enjoy a breathtaking view of Sardinia and Corsica.
The Marine Protected Area of Tavolara and Punta Coda Cavallo
The Marine Protected Area of Tavolara – Punta Coda Cavallo was established in 2003 and spans the municipal territories of Olbia, Loiri Porto San Paolo, and San Teodoro.
This stretch of sea of particular value and environmental significance extends south of Golfo Aranci of Capo Figari and the Gulf of Olbia.
The AMP was created with the purpose of protection, safeguarding, and conservation of the marine area involved, along with the dissemination of the ecological importance of the area.
To preserve the area, a differentiation of zones has been introduced, with different rules and possibilities for conducting activities:
- zone A of integral reserve (such as Molarotto and the eastern portion of Tavolara Punta Papa)
- zone B of general reserve (mainly areas of Tavolara, Molara, Capo Ceraso, and Capo Coda Cavallo)
- zone C of partial reserve
Check the zoning of the Marine Protected Area of Tavolara Punta Coda Cavallo.
Flora and Fauna
The flora and fauna in the Marine Protected Area are particularly interesting and noteworthy.
Birdlife
Among the birdlife, the golden eagle, peregrine falcon, osprey, royal gull, Mediterranean gull, little egret, cattle egret, and tern stand out.
As part of the Mediterranean biodiversity protection, the Life Puffinus Tavolara Project for the conservation of the yelkouan shearwater, which nests on the island, is also active, considered a vulnerable species.
Marine Fauna
Regarding marine fauna, mention should be made of the brown grouper, the dentex, the croaker, and the barracuda. The bream, the salema, and the zebra fish are present in large numbers and often reach impressive sizes.
Large Mammals
Frequently sighted, along with dolphins, are large marine mammals such as the sperm whale, the fin whale, and large cartilaginous fish like the pacific whale shark.
Flora
The flora is equally impressive. In the underwater environment, special mention should be made of the meadows of Posidonia oceanica, a plant that creates real underwater forests that provide shelter to a multitude of animals and protect the coasts from erosion.
On the shores and slopes of the islands, the Mediterranean scrub is dominated by juniper, myrtle, mastic, rock rose, and Helichrysum. The scent of the Mediterranean scrub present in the Tavolara Archipelago is an unforgettable sensation.
Excursions to Tavolara and Molara ⚡
The most frequently asked questions
Can I swim during an excursion to Tavolara?
Certainly. Every type of excursion includes several swimming stops and snorkeling stops to allow you to fully appreciate the nature and the wonderful sea surrounding you.
What should I bring for a trip to Tavolara?
Bring a swimsuit and a beach towel to swim during the stops. If you think it necessary, also bring a sweater or a hoodie; it might be useful for the return trip. Also, bring a cap and sunscreen, but remember to ask the crew for instructions before applying the sunscreen, as some boats may have specific regulations to prevent slips and also to protect the boat's cover.
Is trekking in Tavolara suitable for everyone?
The path to climb Tavolara has a medium difficulty level; however, no special skills or experience are required to tackle it. The guide will provide all the necessary information. It is required that participants do not suffer from vertigo as there are some exposed sections.
I'm a beginner, what should I know to go trekking in Tavolara?
If you are a beginner, you don’t need to worry; the guide will take care of everything, you just need to have fun, enjoy the path, and the arrival at the summit. Before starting the experience, there will be an introductory briefing explaining the route and describing the main techniques and operations. It will be thrilling, no, unforgettable!
What equipment do I need to climb Tavolara?
For this experience, the guide will provide all necessary equipment: helmet, harness, lanyard, carabiners. You need to bring a backpack, a pair of comfortable trekking shoes, long pants, a T-shirt, and a sweatshirt, a packed lunch, water (about 3 liters), a swimsuit, and a beach towel if you want to swim in Tavolara at the end of the excursion.
Tavolara: curiosities ⚡
The most frequently asked questions
What is on the island of Tavolara?
The island of Tavolara is located in a protected marine area surrounded by crystal-clear waters and diverse marine life. This makes it an ideal place for snorkeling and diving.
Monte Tavolara: The island is dominated by Monte Tavolara, a limestone mountain about 565 meters high. It is possible to hike to the summit, and once there, one can enjoy a spectacular panoramic view of the surrounding area.
Beaches: The island of Tavolara is surrounded by several fascinating beaches, some of which are only accessible by sea. Among the most famous are the Spiaggia del Principe and Spiaggia di Spalmatore.
Peregrine Falcon Nest: The island is known for being an important nesting area for peregrine falcons. Birdwatching enthusiasts can be fascinated by this opportunity to observe these magnificent creatures in a natural environment.
There are also two restaurants that can only be reached by boat.
When does Tavolara wear its hat?
Either it's bad or it's good! Putting rhymes aside, when Tavolara has its hat, meaning when the summit is hidden by clouds, it signifies that there is a Scirocco. The Scirocco is the wind that blows from Syria, from the southeast. This wind predominates in Sardinia during the summer season and brings humidity, unlike the Maestrale – mistral – which blows from the northwest and is a predominantly dry wind.
How high is the island of Tavolara?
Tavolara has an elevation of 565 meters above sea level. The summit of Tavolara is Punta Cannone.
How big is the island of Tavolara?
Tavolara covers an area of about 5.9 square kilometers.
What to see on Tavolara?
During a holiday in Olbia and its surroundings, a boat trip to Tavolara is a must! Tavolara is rich in history and unspoiled nature. Among the sights to see are
- Molara
- The Natural Pools
- The bay of Coda Cavallo
- The islet of Proratora, home to important archaeological finds
Who owns Tavolara?
Tavolara has no owners. The western part of the island is public, with some houses, bars, and restaurants. The eastern portion is a military base, thus formally under the control of the Italian Navy.
What is the name of the king of Tavolara?
Today, the formal king of Tavolara is Tonino Bertoleoni. The Bertoleoni are a family of Genoese origin who moved to the island in the early 1800s.
How to reach Tavolara?
Tavolara is only reachable by boat. You can see it by taking one of the ferries that depart daily from Porto San Paolo. The ferry tours the area and stops at Tavolara.
Another option is to take a boat or dinghy trip. Every day there are many tours that depart from Golfo Aranci, Olbia, Porto San Paolo, San Teodoro, and Budoni.
Molara: curiosities ⚡
Frequently asked questions
Who is the owner of Molara?
Molara is a private island, the owner of Molara is a family from Olbia. On Molara, as a private property, excursions are forbidden without a permit.
Where is the island of Molara located?
Molara is located about a mile south of Tavolara, between the areas of Olbia, Porto San Paolo, and San Teodoro. Molara is the second largest island in the Tavolara Punta Coda Cavallo Marine Protected Area.