Cagliari is a city to experience in layers: the Castello district rises on the hill above the port, Marina and Stampace mix narrow streets and trattorias, while Poetto brings the sea into the city. Just a few minutes from the center, the Molentargius salt flats host pink flamingos and the cliffs of Sella del Diavolo offer views of the gulf. Here are 20 experiences to get to know the capital of Sardinia beyond the classic one-day itinerary.