Santa Teresa Gallura: Capo Testa, Rena Bianca and the Bonifacio Straits
Santa Teresa Gallura is the last town in Italy before Corsica: from its towers, you can see the white cliffs of Bonifacio, just 12 miles across the straits. Here the pink granite sculpted by the maestrale creates a unique landscape — led by Capo Testa and the Valley of the Moon — and Rena Bianca beach brings the Caribbean sea directly to the historic center. Here’s how to enjoy it.
Rena Bianca and the beaches of the town
Few towns can boast a beach like Rena Bianca just five minutes on foot from the square: fine, light sand, water shifting from turquoise to blue, and views of Corsica on the horizon. It’s perfect for those staying in the center who do not want to take the car every day. Nearby, La Marmorata offers two twin bays with light sand framed by granites, while to the west Rena di Ponente and Rena di Levante, on the isthmus of Capo Testa, allow you to choose the sheltered side from the wind — a precious luxury in Gallura.
Capo Testa and the Valley of the Moon
Capo Testa is a granite promontory sculpted by the wind into surreal shapes, with the white lighthouse watching over the Bonifacio Straits. It is explored on foot among natural pools, sculpture-like rocks, and old Roman quarries. The most famous path leads down to the Valley of the Moon (Cala Grande): a granite gorge inhabited for decades by hippie communities, with pebble beaches and sunsets worth the trip. Bring closed shoes, water, and stay for the sunset: it’s the moment when the granite lights up pink.
By boat: Bonifacio Straits and archipelago
From Santa Teresa, Corsica is easily reachable for a day trip: the ferries to Bonifacio take about 50 minutes and allow you to visit the citadel perched on the cliffs within a day. Local boat excursions explore the Gallura coast and the islands of the La Maddalena archipelago from the west side, with swimming stops in coves accessible only by sea. The wind is a decisive factor: with strong maestrale, departures are shifted or canceled, so keep flexibility in your schedule.
The town, the tower, and the surroundings
The center of Santa Teresa is a nineteenth-century grid of orthogonal streets commissioned by the Savoys, lively in summer with shops, restaurants, and the evening walk towards Piazza Vittorio Emanuele. The sixteenth-century Torre di Longonsardo dominates the entrance to the port and offers the best view of the Straits. Nearby, the tourist harbor, the coves along the coast toward Palau, and for wine lovers, the vermentino wineries of inland Gallura are worth a stop.
Can I go to Corsica for a day?
Yes: the Santa Teresa-Bonifacio ferries take about 50 minutes, and in summer there are more departures per day. Leaving in the morning allows for a comfortable visit to the citadel of Bonifacio and returning in time for dinner.
How do I reach the Valley of the Moon?
You can park at Capo Testa (in summer the parking fills up quickly) and walk down the path to Cala Grande: 15-20 minutes among the granites. Closed shoes are needed; the path is not suitable for strollers.
Is Rena Bianca suitable for children?
Yes: sandy and sloping bottom, beach services, and the town center just five minutes on foot. It’s one of the most family-friendly beaches in Gallura.
How far is Santa Teresa from Olbia airport?
About an hour by car (60 km) along the SS133bis via Palau. Alternatively, there are bus services, but with luggage and family, a rental car remains the most practical solution.
Is the wind a problem?
The maestrale wind in the Bonifacio Straits is frequent, but the double exposure of the beaches helps: with wind from the west, you go to Rena di Levante or La Marmorata, with wind from the east to Rena di Ponente. Boat excursions adapt or are rescheduled.