How to Arrive and Move Around Sardinia: airports, ferries, cars and public transport

Sardinia is an island almost as large as Sicily but with a third of the population: distances are longer than they seem on the map and the choice of how to arrive — and especially how to move around once you land — really changes the vacation. This guide lays out everything you need to know: the three airports and the areas they serve, the ports and ferry routes from major Italian cities, when it makes sense to rent a car, what to expect from buses and trains, and practical tips for each area.

Airports: Cagliari, Olbia, and Alghero

Sardinia has three airports, each serving a macro-area. Cagliari Elmas (CAG) is the busiest, connected year-round with major Italian and European cities. It serves the entire south: from the terminal, a train takes you to downtown Cagliari in 7 minutes, while a rental car can reach Villasimius and Chia in about an hour and Pula in 40 minutes. Olbia Costa Smeralda (OLB) is the northeastern gateway: Olbia city is 10 minutes away, San Teodoro and the Costa Smeralda of Arzachena are about 30 minutes, Palau and Santa Teresa Gallura (for ferries to La Maddalena and Corsica) within an hour. In summer, flights multiply but prices rise quickly: it's wise to book early. Alghero Fertilia (AHO) serves the northwest: Alghero is 15 minutes away, Stintino and La Pelosa are 45 minutes, Sassari is half an hour away, and Bosa is less than an hour. It has the fewest connections and is often the cheapest with low-cost airlines. Practical rule: choose the airport based on the area where you will be staying. Crossing the island from Olbia to Chia takes 3.5 hours of driving.

Ferries: ports and routes from the mainland

The ferry is the right choice if you want to bring your car (or camper, motorcycle, bike) and saves you the cost of a rental. The main Sardinian ports are three. Olbia is the best served: routes from Genoa, Livorno, Civitavecchia, and Piombino, with daytime and nighttime crossings. Golfo Aranci, 20 minutes from Olbia, receives fast boats from Livorno and Piombino. Porto Torres, in the northwest, is connected to Genoa and is the ideal landing for Stintino, Alghero, and Sassari. Cagliari has less frequent connections (Civitavecchia, Naples, Palermo) but is convenient for those heading directly to the south. The companies covering these routes are Moby, Tirrenia, Grimaldi Lines, GNV, Corsica-Sardinia Ferries, and Grandi Navi Veloci. Crossings last from 5 hours for fast daytime services to 10-12 hours for nighttime services: the nighttime ship with cabin is a classic that 'saves' a vacation day. Tips: in high season, book 2-3 months in advance, especially with a car; August rates can triple. Keep an eye on the Santa Teresa Gallura–Bonifacio route, which connects Sardinia to Corsica in one hour.

Car Rental: When It’s Needed and How to Save

Let's state it clearly: for most trips in Sardinia, a car is almost essential. The most beautiful beaches are often outside populated areas, public transport is designed for residents, and many areas (Costa Smeralda, Ogliastra, Sinis, southwest) can only be visited without a car through organized tours. Rental desks are found at all three airports and at the ports of Olbia and Cagliari. To save money: book online well in advance (in August, prices double and cars run out), compare rates with and without excess, check the fuel policy, and photograph the car upon pickup. A compact car is sufficient almost everywhere; consider an SUV only if you plan to drive on unpaved roads to the more remote coves. Driving in Sardinia is pleasant: the SS131 'Carlo Felice' crosses the island from Cagliari to Sassari/Porto Torres, while the SS125 'Orientale Sarda' offers scenic views of the east coast. Allow longer travel times than what the GPS suggests on coastal roads and be cautious of free-roaming animals in rural areas. Those who do not drive can still enjoy the island by choosing a well-served base (Cagliari, Alghero, Olbia) and taking day trips by boat or bus.

Buses, Trains, and Public Connections

Sardinia's public transport works, but you have to take it for what it is: perfect on some routes, nearly non-existent elsewhere. Trains (Trenitalia and ARST) connect Cagliari with Oristano, Sassari, Olbia, and Porto Torres along the main line: the Cagliari–Sassari line takes about 3 hours. The railway serves few tourist coasts, with one pleasant exception: the Trenino Verde, a scenic tourist line that crosses the interior of the island in summer. The ARST buses reach almost all towns, but with schedules designed for students and commuters: few services on holidays and in summer in tourist resorts. The most useful routes for tourists are the airport–city connections, the Olbia–San Teodoro line, the Cagliari–Villasimius/Chia line in summer, and the scenic Alghero–Bosa route to be done at least once. In summer, local tourist shuttles to beaches are added (for example, in Cagliari for Poetto, in Stintino for La Pelosa). For the smaller islands, travel by sea: ferries to La Maddalena depart from Palau every 15-30 minutes (15-minute crossing), with boarding also available by car (but you can easily get around the island with rented scooters). For Carloforte, departures are from Portovesme or Calasetta, for the Asinara park from Stintino or Porto Torres, and for Tavolara from Porto San Paolo.

Practical Tips Area by Area

Northeast (Olbia, Costa Smeralda, San Teodoro, La Maddalena): arrive in Olbia (flight or ferry). A car is useful to enjoy the coves; for the La Maddalena archipelago, leave it at Palau and cross as a pedestrian; on the island, you can rent scooters and mini-cars. In high season, start early: the road to Costa Smeralda gets congested. Northwest (Alghero, Stintino, Sassari, Bosa): fly into Alghero or disembark at Porto Torres. Distances are short and Alghero is one of the few livable bases without a car: a pedestrian historic center, buses to La Pelosa in summer, and the spectacular coastal road to Bosa that should be done at least once. East Coast (Cala Gonone, Gulf of Orosei): the reference airport is Olbia (90 minutes) or Cagliari (2 hours). Here, a car is only needed to reach the area: the coves of the Gulf of Orosei are reached by boat from the port of Cala Gonone or on foot with demanding treks. South (Cagliari, Villasimius, Chia, Pula): fly into Cagliari. The city is easily explored on foot and by bus; for the beaches in the southeast (Villasimius, Costa Rei) and southwest (Chia, Tuerredda), a car is needed, taking less than an hour in each direction. West (Oristano, Sinis, Carloforte): this area is poorly served by public transport, and car rental is almost mandatory but worth it: quartz beaches of Sinis, Tharros, and, via ferry from Portovesme, the Tabarchina Carloforte.

Is it better to take the plane or the ferry to Sardinia?

It depends on what you need on the island. The plane wins on time and often on price (with low-cost airlines booked in advance), but you'll need to rent a car afterward. The ferry is worthwhile if you're traveling with family with lots of luggage, if you're bringing your car (saving on rental, which is expensive in August), or if you're traveling with pets. The overnight ship with a cabin allows you to arrive in the morning rested without losing a day.

Can I visit Sardinia without a car?

Yes, but by choosing the right base. Cagliari, Alghero, and Olbia are walkable cities, with beaches accessible by bus and many daily excursions by boat or minivan to the most beautiful areas. However, if you dream of exploring different coves every day or areas like Costa Smeralda, Sinis, or the southwest, renting a car is almost essential.

Which airport should I choose for my area?

Olbia for the northeast (Costa Smeralda, San Teodoro, La Maddalena, Santa Teresa Gallura), Alghero for the northwest (Alghero, Stintino, Sassari, Bosa), Cagliari for all of the south (Villasimius, Chia, Pula) and for the west (Oristano, Carloforte). For the east coast of Cala Gonone, the most convenient airports are Olbia (90 minutes) or Cagliari (2 hours).

From which cities do ferries to Sardinia depart?

The main routes depart from Genoa (to Olbia and Porto Torres), Livorno and Piombino (to Olbia and Golfo Aranci), Civitavecchia (to Olbia and Cagliari), and Naples and Palermo (to Cagliari). The companies are Moby, Tirrenia, Grimaldi, GNV, and Corsica-Sardinia Ferries; crossings last from 5 to 12 hours depending on the route and the service (fast daytime or overnight).

How long does it take to cross Sardinia by car?

More than it seems: from Olbia to Cagliari on the SS131 takes about 3 hours, from Olbia to Chia 3.5 hours, from Alghero to Cala Gonone about 2. Coastal roads are scenic but slow. The advice is to choose one or two bases and explore the surrounding area, instead of changing hotels every night.

How do you get to La Maddalena and the other minor islands?

To get to La Maddalena, take the ferry from Palau: departures every 15-30 minutes, 15-minute crossing, boarding is also available with your car (but you can get around the island easily with rented scooters). For Carloforte, departures are from Portovesme or Calasetta, for the Asinara park from Stintino or Porto Torres, for Tavolara from Porto San Paolo near San Teodoro.